Few gems carry the quiet elegance of a pearl, and among cultured pearls, Akoya pearls are the classic. They're the pearls most people picture: round, white and glowing. Here's what makes them special and how to choose pieces you'll love for decades.
What are Akoya pearls?
Akoya pearls are saltwater cultured pearls grown in the Akoya pearl oyster, historically associated with Japan, where pearl culturing was pioneered in the early twentieth century. They're known for their round shape, bright, mirror-like luster and white to cream body color, often with soft rose or silvery overtones. Most Akoya pearls fall between about 6 and 8 millimeters, a size that feels refined and timeless.
How to judge pearl quality
- Luster: the most important factor. Great luster looks sharp and reflective, almost like a mirror, rather than chalky or dull.
- Surface: small natural marks are normal. Fewer and less visible blemishes mean higher quality.
- Shape: perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most traditional choice for strands and studs.
- Size: larger pearls of the same quality are rarer and more valuable.
- Nacre: the pearl's layers. Thicker nacre gives deeper luster and better durability.
- Matching: in strands and pairs of earrings, pearls should match closely in size, color and luster.
Akoya vs freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels, come in a wide range of shapes and colors, and are generally more affordable. Akoya pearls are typically rounder with sharper luster. Both are beautiful; Akoya is the choice when you want the classic, polished look.
How to wear and style pearls
- Pearl studs and drops are the easiest way to start, polished enough for work and special enough for evenings.
- Pearls with colored gemstones feel fresh and modern. Pairing Akoya pearls with blue topaz, aquamarine, tanzanite or pink tourmaline adds a pop of color to a timeless classic.
- A pearl strand is the ultimate heirloom and works with everything from a white shirt to an evening dress.
Caring for pearls
Pearls are organic gems and softer than most stones, so a little care goes a long way:
- Pearls should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off. Apply perfume, lotion and hairspray first.
- Wipe pearls with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wearing.
- Store them separately in a soft pouch, away from harder jewelry that can scratch them.
- Have strands restrung periodically if you wear them often.
Shop pearl jewelry
Discover Akoya pearl drop earrings in 14K gold paired with blue topaz, aquamarine, tanzanite and pink tourmaline in our earrings collection, and find pearl and diamond pendants among our 14K gold pendants. For more heirloom-quality pieces, explore Fine & Precious.