Short answer: Akoya pearls are saltwater cultured pearls known for a round shape, white to cream color and sharp, mirror-like luster. Judge them first by luster, then surface, shape, size and matching. Choose Akoya for the classic polished look; choose freshwater pearls for more shapes, colors and a lower price.
Last updated November 1, 2026
Few gems carry the quiet elegance of a pearl, and among cultured pearls, Akoya pearls are the classic. They're the pearls most people picture: round, white and glowing. Here's what makes them special and how to choose pieces you'll enjoy wearing.
What are Akoya pearls?
Akoya pearls are saltwater cultured pearls grown in the Akoya pearl oyster, historically associated with Japan, where pearl culturing was pioneered in the early twentieth century. They're known for their round shape, bright, mirror-like luster and white to cream body color, often with soft rose or silvery overtones. Akoya pearls in jewelry are commonly about 6 to 8 millimeters, a size that feels refined and classic.
How to judge pearl quality
- Luster: the most important factor. Great luster looks sharp and reflective, almost like a mirror, rather than chalky or dull.
- Surface: small natural marks are normal. Fewer and less visible blemishes mean higher quality.
- Shape: perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most traditional choice for strands and studs.
- Size: larger pearls of the same quality are rarer and more valuable.
- Nacre: the pearl's layers. Thicker nacre gives deeper luster and better durability.
- Matching: in strands and pairs of earrings, pearls should match closely in size, color and luster.
Akoya vs freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels, come in a wide range of shapes and colors, and are generally more affordable. Akoya pearls are typically rounder with sharper luster. Both are beautiful; Akoya is the choice when you want the classic, polished look.
How to wear and style pearls
- Pearl studs and drops are the easiest way to start, polished enough for work and special enough for evenings.
- Pearls with colored gemstones feel fresh and modern. Pairing Akoya pearls with blue topaz, aquamarine, tanzanite or pink tourmaline adds a pop of color to a classic.
- A pearl strand is the traditional choice and works with everything from a white shirt to an evening dress.
Caring for pearls
Pearls are organic gems and softer than most stones, so a little care goes a long way:
- Pearls should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off. Apply perfume, lotion and hairspray first.
- Wipe pearls with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wearing.
- Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner on pearls.
- Store them separately in a soft pouch, away from harder jewelry that can scratch them.
- Have strands restrung periodically if you wear them often.
Shop pearl jewelry
Discover Akoya pearl drop earrings in 14K gold paired with blue topaz, aquamarine, tanzanite and pink tourmaline in our earrings collection and pearl earrings, and find pearl pendants and strands in pearl necklaces and our 14K gold pendants. For more solid gold pieces, explore Fine & Precious.
How this guide was written
This guide was written for the Oxfordum Journal using GIA's published pearl references, listed below, for pearl types, quality factors and care. Oxfordum sells both Akoya and freshwater pearl jewelry, and each product page states the pearl type and size.
FAQ
What is the difference between Akoya and freshwater pearls?
Akoya pearls are saltwater cultured pearls, usually round and white to cream with sharp, mirror-like luster. Freshwater pearls grow in mussels, come in more shapes and colors, and are generally more affordable.
What is the most important factor in pearl quality?
Luster. A good pearl reflects light sharply, almost like a mirror, rather than looking chalky or dull.
How should I clean pearls?
Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wearing. Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, and put pearls on after perfume, lotion and hairspray.
